1 Introduction

In September 2022 I was driving from Perth to my home in Beverley WA (state of Western Australia). I had set off late and it had just got dark, and I was in a forest with poor visibility. I was hit by a roo (kangaroo). I never did get to see it, but judging by the fur colour in the damage, it was a Western Grey Kangaroo. It had smashed the front left of my car, pushed the body back so the passenger door no longer opened, and destroyed the headlight. I was able to pull the body off the tyre, and limp home the next 90km. It was just as well because retrieving it later would have been a logistical nightmare and very expensive. The car was a write off.

Over the next few weeks I looked for a replacement car, and told people in Beverley my news. One day a lady I knew casually told me that a local man had a Ford Focus for sale. I had never considered a hatchback before. I contacted him, but he was less than helpful. In a phone call to my friend Grey (hey Grey) he told me he had a Focus for sale. The previous year Grey had driven over from the East of Australia in that car, he stayed with me for 10 weeks, and I knew the car. I had forgotten it was a Focus, I just remembered it was a good unit. He offered me a superb price, as he wanted to buy a motorbike. He had driven it back East during the pandemic, and was now living in a health retreat (Misty Mountain Retreat) in remote NSW (the state of New South Wales)…no phone coverage, only StarLink internet.

He first offered to drive it back over, some 4000km, then we decided to meet in Adelaide, with me flying there. But still 1000km drive to take him home and for me to drive back. Eventually I made a plan to fly to Brisbane Qld (the state of Queensland), take the train down the east coast of Australia, meet him half way to Sydney and then drive to the retreat. This we eventually did. And I would drive back to Beverley (my home) across Australia.

Day 1 - Wed 2023-01-18 Beverley to Perth - Coach

I caught the coach, only four per week, a two hour ride. I had driven the route dozens of times, but this time I has riding high up, and no driving. I saw the route in a whole new light. We arrived on time, and I did the 500m walk from the coach stop to Lord Street where I was to catch the bus to my friend David‘s place (hey David). My feet were getting sore and starting to swell with oedema. I had seen my GP the week previously about this and he said it was fine.

I crossed Lord Street to catch my bus on the other side. The street is two lanes each way with a median strip in the middle. I saw a car coming in my nearest lane and walked out as I could easily be almost over before he came. Only he changed lanes into the lane I was on, actually swerved into that lane. I could see he wasn‘t slowing and I just jumped out of the way in time. With my heart still pounding, I caught the bus to David‘s place. He put me up overnight (thanks David), and we spent a lovely evening. He went to work in the morning, and I spent the morning on the internet.

Day 2 - Thu - 2023-01-19 Perth to Brisbane - Flight QANTAS

At 2pm my friend Vincent (hey Vincent) picked me up and we went to his place for coffee and a chat, and at 4pm he took me to the airport for my flight (thanks Vincent). I had paid extra to choose my seat on this QANTAS flight, but the online boarding pass had a different seat number, so I needed a human to help me check in. The whole process was very confusing as my flight was not listed on any checkin desk. I eventually crawled under the directional tape to approach an empty checkin to ask the lady there. She helped me, but we were interrupted three times. Each was to talk to her about lost mobiles. It seems her job was to handle the location and return of mobiles left on flights. She said she handled 100 lost phones per week…and that was just one carrier at one airport. How do people leave so many phones on planes? And each has to be returned by flight from wherever it ended up.

So, I then went to process through security. After I went through the body scan I was pulled to one side. A guy led me to a strange looking machine, and asked me to rub my groin and chest, and then present my hands face up. He proceeded to rub a pad over my hands and then put it into the machine. It seems he was scanning me for nitroglycerine traces. Well, the machine beeped and flashed red…positive. He said don‘t worry that happens sometimes. We did the process again with a fresh pad…positive. I am getting nervous. He called his boss over. and two thug shaped guards appear behind me. We do the test again…positive. The assumption now is that I have been in contact with bomb making chemicals. However nitroglycerine is also used medically, and they asked for a list of my medications. But before they let me retrieve the list from my bag, we do another test…negative. And one more test…negative. I look around and my thugs have gone, and I am released to board the plane.

QANTAS is considered to be Australia‘s best airline, but my first trip with them was disappointing. Only one USB charger for three seats, very poor entertainment selection, and vey poor food, however very good cabin crew. We land in Brisbane at midnight. I knew this and had planned to catch a cab from the airport to Roma Street train station, and wait the four hours until my train in the station. After a $70 cab fare for a 10km ride, I was dumped outside what appeared to be a closed station. I walked around until I found an entrance and found a platform where I planned to sleep for a while on a bench. I was shaken awake by a gruff employee who advised me that the station was closing until 3:30am, and I was to leave the station, he closed the gate behind me and I walked out just as it started to rain…not too bad as it was warm rain.

I looked for a nook to settle in and finally found a cranny in the entrance to an underground car park. There was an abandoned supermarket trolley and I put my bags on it and hid. But not well enough, as twice thin blacked clothed youths asked me if I had a lighter. I had none. Notice how they didn‘t ask for a light for a cigarette, they asked for a lighter, I assumed they needed the lighter for their spoons. Then a youth turned up, and about 20 meters away started walking up and down looking at me. In get nervous of this. Then about 20 loud laughing people mulled around, I assumed a night club had just closed as it was now 3am. I gathered up my stuff and walked back to the station. The gate was open and I entered.

Day 3 - Fri - 2023-01-20 Brisbane to Misty Mountain Retreat - Train

My train departed at 4:55am. I had purchased a first class ticket, which had huge seats, much space, and was in a carriage next to the buffet car which we had unlimited access to. While waiting on the platform to board I talked to a woman who was going the whole distance from Brisbane to Sydney, which was to be a 14 hour ride. I was up for a 6 hour ride.

Time passed easily, and was also filled by an amusing guard advising information about the countryside we traversed over the speakers. At one point I went to the buffer to get a coffee. As I returned she stated that the next stop at Coffs Harbour would be a two part process. The first stop was for the engine to take on fuel, the carriage doors would remain locked, then the train would move and stop again. She then said that any smoker could get off there and have a cigarette which would give us the opportunity to leave and abandon them. I was returning to my seat facing all the passengers who all laughed at once…an amusing sight.

Soon after we arrived at Mackville Station where I got off and met my friend Grey. We went outside to see my new car. Grey drove to the Retreat, about 100kms. The last 20km was on the property, with the last 10km of that on dirt. He showed me all the 5 small wooden bridges we would cross, and all the deepest potholes.

Day 4 - Sat - 2023-01-21 Rest Day

My feet were swelling more, and after travelling for more than 17 hours I retired early. I had expected to be tired, and also wanted to spend time with Grey, so I had all day Saturday to rest up. Grey showed me the Retreat, and we spent a great day together (thanks Grey).

Day 5 - Sun - 2023-01-22 Retreat to Port Macquarie - 100km

The next morning I drove the Focus for the first time back down the dirt road. All Grey‘s advice was really useful. Once, I came round a corner to be face-to-face with another car, we both swerved successfully.

I was heading to Port Macquarie to meet up with a very old friend Andrew (hey Andrew), we had known each other 46 years previously in Perth in the 1970s, then lost contact for decades only finding each other on the net a few years ago. When he heard of my trip, he planned to fly up to Port Macquarie from Melbourne, stay with a friend there and meet me for coffee. We met at the agreed place at 11am, and it was as if we had never parted. Yes we had decades under our belts, and both had had good lives, but we carried on as if it were only yesterday. Six hours later we changed venues when the live music came on, and carried on for another two hours together.

I had intended to head out to Tamworth the same day, but I was tired and it was getting dark, so I drove out of town and found a side road to hide, park and sleep before it got too dark to see. This was my first night sleeping in the car. I awoke several times to really heavy rain on the roof, and lightening in the sky. I was thankful my checkin bag on the plane contained a pillow, beanie, heavy coat, thick socks, long jeans and thick gloves. It was cold at night, but I wasn‘t.

Day 6 - Mon - 2023-01-23 Port Macquarie to Cobar - 800km

I awoke early and set off. When I got the car I saw it had built in fog lamps that I never expected to use. Well it was only the second day, and boy was I glad I had them, as the fog was thick. I drove for an hour until my expected turn off to Tamworth and thence to the five National Parks I planned to see. The fog had cleared, but the rain was really heavy and my feet were getting bigger. I decided to abandon the “busman‘s holiday” I had planned, and set off for home.

I stayed on the main highway for Sydney and made good time. About 100km from Sydney I turned west and headed inland. I reached Merriwa, but got lost in the town. I ended up driving a back road and turned round. Now you know when you see a pothole you can judge how deep it is. Well when it fills with water you loose that depth, add heavy rain, and you may even not see it. That happened, and then there was a huge bang, the car shook and I skidded to a halt. I had been driving at 50kph but it was still a big hit. I examined the front left wheel but it looked OK. I found my way and headed west.

I stopped in Broken Hill several hours later, to use the toilet at a servo (that is a petrol stop for non Aussies hehe), and as I returned to the car I noticed from behind it had a left lilt.

I examined the wheels to find the front left was half flat. I tried to put air in it but it seemed to take none. The Focus has no full size spare tyre, only a little limp-home type. I limped to the nearest tyre place, luckily just a block away. They said the tire was ruined, but they did not have the non standard size in stock, they pumped it up and sent me to another tyre place. The same there, and I limped to the third and last tyre place in Broken Hill. He said the same things. I asked when he could get a tyre and he said three days as it had to come from Melbourne nearly 1000km away. So, I planned to find a place to hide and sleep out of town, but with phone bars, and not too far that it would damage the tyre. Then he said wait a minute. We could put the rear tyre on the front, and a slightly over size tyre on the back. It is 5mm bigger, and should get me all the way home. I agreed and asked him the cost, he said $140. I was amazed as I expected three times that. He said he had run the business for 50 years, was 82yo and continued for fun, not profit. And besides he wanted to help. He showed me the inside of the old tyre, and it looked like old skin, not smooth like a good one. He suggested that it was a manufacturing fault. Grey had told me the Focus had a small vibration from 100kph to 120kph. Twenty minutes later I was on my way, and the vibration was gone.

Day 7 - Tue - 2023-01-24 Cobar to Kimba - 800km

I got to Cobar, and found my usual dirt track to sleep. I was close enough to town to have bars on my mobile, and I sent some emails. It was two days later before I had email access again, and there was an email from Andrew telling me to go to a special place in Cobar, but it was too late for me. That place was a musical installation in an old silo, free to enter but very unusual location way out in the bush. I had missed it.

I continued on my way but was frustrated early in the morning to be stuck behind a three trailer roadtrain, which also had four cars all bunched up tailgating each other behind. After the sun rose they all passed. I finally twigged that they were using the big rig as a shield against hitting roos at dawn and dusk. After my own experience of hitting a roo, I thought that was clever. After that I would drive at 80kph, dawn and dusk, and eventually a rig would come up behind, then overtake me, and I would duck in behind and we would do 110kph.

Day 8 - Wed - 2023-01-25 Kimba to Norseman - 1500km

The next morning I was up at 5am and driving at 80kph, when I saw my first roo. The Focus brakes are very good, and I stopped on a dime. I went to pass it at about 40kph, when it ran out in front of me. I skidded to a stop. I was pleased my technique had worked. A few km further on I encountered a whole flock of goats on the road, I couldn‘t determine if they were domestic for sale, or wild.

I approached the Adelaide turn off. My good friend Brian (hey Brian) lives there. He and I travelled the hippy trail in the 70s. We had seen each other a few times in the decades, the last being in 2020 when he too drove the Nullabor to deliver a car to family near Perth. I drove 200km to have coffee with him. Like with Andrew, Brian and I talked for 6 hours, a great day. However this day I bypassed Adelaide, because I was in country mode, and whilst the 400km detour was OK to see Brian I avoided the built up areas. However Port Augusta was full of traffic lights and it took me an hour to pass through. Just after PA were the Flinders Ranges, a row of hills I now started to climb. I went through the pass at the top and started my descent, when I saw something I had heard about but was amazed by, and that is a huge wind farm. The turbines are 95m tall, and I counted 120 with the distant ones being too far to count.

After another 50km I entered the Nullabor Plain. For non Aussies Nullabor means ‘no trees’, and the plain reaches south to the Great Australian Bight, where the cliffs are vertical to the ocean and about 120m high. This road (designated the A1) is where I wanted to be the most on this trip. The road, called by Aussies as The Nullabor, is 1,200km long and dead flat.

I just love driving this road. I set the cruise control to 130kph and just relax. The hours pass peacefully, and to me it is a meditation. This day‘s drive was 15 hours with 10 of them on the Nullabor. Towards the end heading west, the road nears the cliffs and there are lookouts. I found one with just the right aspect and took this photo.

In the photo you can see the cliffs of the Great Australian Bight, called The Bight, and I lined up several cliff indents to make an illusion. One can also approach the edge, then crawl on hands and knees, and finally squirm on stomach to ease your head over the edge. You look 120m vertically down the cliff to the pounding waves of the Southern Ocean at the bottom. The winds come off the ocean, hits the cliffs and are directed straight up the cliff, and into your face with a great force, it is very exhilarating.

Eventually the A1 nears the border with WA (the state of Western Australia). About 2km from the border there had been an accident. A small truck was parked by the road facing East. Down a small escarpment of about 20m was a crashed car. The police and ambulance were in attendance.

Along many remote sealed roads in Australia there are painted lines across the road, and about 1-2km later are more of the same. There will be a sign saying ‘Temporary RFDS Runway’. The RFDS is The Royal Flying Doctor Service, which is a group of flying ambulances that service remote locations in Australia. It is a clever idea that the roads are used in this way as a runway for the RFDS planes. I wondered if an injured person in the accident would be flown to hospital.

So, I arrived at the border of SA to WA. There is a checkpoint where each car is searched. The search is for fruit and vegetables, which can not be carried across the border, this being a protection against the transfer of disease or pests. During the COVID pandemic this checkpoint was closed stopping all traffic, effectively closing WA to the rest of the country. Several people were imprisoned for breaching it.

I was passed through the checkpoint, and about 5km later encountered the Eucla Pass. This is a natural break in the cliffs, allowing the A1 to drop from the cliff top down to sea level. The ocean can be seen, and the road goes through the town Eucla and follows the coast for the next 200km to Cocklebiddy.

From Cocklebiddy for 146km to the town of Belladonia is an interesting feature. It is the longest straight road in Australia, and for many years was the longest in the world. It has since been beaten by a road in Saudi Arabia which is 255km long, see- Arab News. When the Australian road was built is was called the ‘90 Mile Straight’.

I set the cruise control, and placed the car over the centre line with my head dead centre, and just sat there for 90 minutes and took my hands off the wheel. It felt bizarre, as if it was not me that was driving, but the earth passing beneath me and I was still. I saw no traffic for the entire time, and the sun was setting.

The end of the straight part was Belladonia. This is famous for an interesting reason. In 1979 the NASA space-station SKYLAB reached its end of life and was deorbited, with the intention that it would burn up in the atmosphere, only not all of it did. A good deal of the space-station survived reentry and crashed to earth all around WA near Belladonia. The news was seen all around the world, and many locals scoured the area for bits. The Shire of Belladonia fined NASA for littering…hehe, true. The fine remains unpaid, with NASA allowing Belladonia to keep the bits and have some fame. The bits are now in a specially built museum in Belladonia. I am a space nerd, and was disappointed to arrive after closing time, so I missed it. However I have seen other bits in the museum in Esperance. Two hours later it was completely dark, I arrived at Norseman, and parked for some sleep.

Day 9 - Thu - 2023-01-26 Norseman to Beverley - 800km

After some sleep I awoke at about 3am, and hit the road again. I used my trick for driving behind a roadtrain until it turned off at Esperance, and I drove at 80kph until after sunrise. Seven hours later I arrived home, with mixed feelings, happy to be safe, and sad for the end of my journey. I had a welcome long hot shower, and went to bed for a 10 hour sleep.

CONCLUSION

Apart from a few incidents and accidents I had a ball. A couple of days after my return my feet return to normal size. My GP told me to be careful with my next long drive, and to stop often to walk, to avoid DVT, I will do that.

I really enjoyed the long runs using the cruise control, a first for me. I would do it again in a heartbeat. And in fact I have a plan to repeat the drive, over the Nullabor and back again in 2028. That is the year of a remarkable and very special full solar eclipse, for Australia. It starts in the NW and moves SE right over Sydney. Yes there there is a solar eclipse in April 2023 in WA at Exmouth (pop 3k), but with 25,000 people expected, that is not for me. For the 2028 eclipse I plan on finding a quiet little town in NSW somewhere with few people. An expected 8,000,000 people will see the eclipse all over Australia.

I saw the 2012 eclipse in Queensland, and was amazed. My good friend Jason (hey Jason) and his wife Rachel drove up from Lismore to join me. It was a truly magic and spiritual experience.

OK, I suggest you see any eclipse you can, and I recommend driving anywhere that we Australians lovingly call…the bush.

A Drive Across Australia

4,000 km in 3 days